Friday, October 30, 2009

Adios Cincinnati

Daisy is a warrior, she defies the life expectancy for Dalmations.

The home of my parents and sisters tucked away in the suburbs outside of Cincinnati.

Recycle, reduce, reuse. With a recession in the making consumption is on the downfall for most people. No worries, this is good. What do we need to survive in life? Water, food, shelter... I like to keep things simple. A good dog by your side is also very handy.

Earlier today the little kid was working hard out back raking leaves.

After an hour I suggested she take a break and let's cruise the block on our cool bikes.

Locked and loaded. Second season on the Ice and I now know what to bring. Last year my cook books weighed down my bags costing me an extra penny or two, this year I'm mailing them down. Tomorrow at noon I head to the airport with my Grandpa. Totally excited for this trip.


Tuesday, October 27, 2009

The Final Belize Post

I received my new camera today and am now able to upload my finals shots from Belize. The solar oven...

Hot water rain fed shower.

The only Lobster I saw in a week of diving. Where have all the Lobsters gone? Belize used to supply Red Lobster, but the waters have been overfished = no lobster = locals sad = learn the hard way I guess.

Behind me I felt eyes and I when I turned I saw a giant Eagle Ray... wingspan of about 2 meters. Once I stopped it went around me, how long had it been following me?

A great ending to the Belize Marine Conservation journey... now for Antarctica!




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Friday, October 23, 2009

The Final Island Sunset

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Thursday, October 22, 2009

24 Hours Remaining on this Island

Of all things, what I will take away most from this island experience, is the need and power of simple living. Yesterday it was hot and I was thirsty, so I break a coconut and drinks it's water... hydrating, medicinal, tasty, this be all I need. Pretty soon I will be out of reach the fresh fallen coconuts and rainwater barrels, and will be required to consume city filtered tap water and bottled/canned drinks. After spending months in the wild, limited access to pure natural resources can be the biggest culture shock.

Starting in June I've been living off-grid in three entirely different environment in Alaska and in Belize. Over the course of three years I've acquired a DOI of 55%.

%DOI - % of days off-grid index = Days Off-grid/On-grid

The rest of the island interior looks like this.

My simple room. As a fan I just leave the door open at night and the sea breeze kees me cool. If the wind is stronger than 7 MPH the bugs keep down.

Drinking rainwater is majestic. Speaking of which, it just started raining.

Taking showers with rainwater is natural tambien.

Only yesterday when taking these photos did I realize we have a solar water heater on the primary shower house. I like cold water showers though, it keeps your water use short and wakes you up.

A Grill Chef's Paradise. To get some hot coals... throw fallen, dried palm leaves on some burning cardboard and top it with dried coconut shells. Within 10 minutes you'll have a toasty fire for grilling steak or Gibnut.

I realized the importance of Rena's and Alex's research yesterday. It's good to have watchdogs in parks. What I think will make the biggest impact on conservation is the footage and photos they take. Rena needs to make a video with her footage... it's quite surreal, totally IMAX or Nat. Geo. worthy. For me, artwork capturing natural environments is more motivating than natural science statistics.

In the evening I took a boat ride to Glovers Atoll Resort to finish my scuba diving lessons.

Getting my gear together.

After all the wind we've had the vis. was not so good. There were a lot of groupers feeding. A week-long crash-course in scuba diving has been great and it's a good skill to have in my travel bag just to explore new environments. But, call me a hippy or whatever, I like snorkeling more. I've come to know more about the atoll reef ecosystem by snorkeling in the shallow reefs. It feels more natural to me and I'm closer to all the elements of the marine nature (wind, waves, birds, sun, fresh air, reefs, currents, tidal systems, etc.). With snorkeling you float most of the time and maintain a big picture viewpoint of the reef system. Breathing for 60 min. with an air tank strapped to your back and having to equalize is just more work than is needed. Snorkeling will make your lungs stronger. Many reasons why I think snorkeling is cooler, but that's just my opinion and I guess it depends on where you're at.

Heading back home to get the BBQ going I rendevue with Alex and the team midway between the islands.

These guys and girl have been a great to cook for. They appreciate the work I put into the dishes and I really appreciate the work they do to keep the oceans protected. All is chill and good here. Good vibe mon, mad respect.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

De Storm Be Passin' Soon Boy

Three days of rain and relaxation and I now have 3 days left to finish my scuba classes, pack for my departure, and cook these guys some grand finale dishes.

Today the winds died down and the bugs came out. Darn.

All I have left in the pantry is flour, baking needs, rice, beans, a few cans of corn, and... well, I think that's it really. In the freezer downstairs I have chicken, beef, and pork. Tortillas I'm making from scratch. Tortilla chips I'm making from scratch. Everything from scratch cuz there ain't no other way of doing it. Chicken enchiladas with a habanero-sweet corn sauce.
Coconut, chocolate, caramel... just to name a few.
Chicken that falls off the bone. Seasoned with chix stock, lime, chilis, and garlic.
Creamed sweet corn n' peas.
Homemade mashed papas.
Avocado salad.
A weird tree-like growth on the reef.
The storm has been rough on the bird populations. I saw many dead ones on the reef. This one was weak so I chilled with it for awhile. Last night, I was sitting on my back porch listening to the rain and one landed right a bird landed on my lap. Two days ago a seagull landed on my head. "Dem birds man, dey gone crazy" - ol' pa Roy
Exerimental floating coral growth cage Rena has designed to monitor coral growth outside predatory zones (i.e., away from parrot fish).
Bry and Massive betting on whether it works or not.

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Monday, October 19, 2009

Scuba Diving Class #2 at Glovers Resort

A few days ago I finished my second dive course. Since then I've completed the 150 page book and DVD instruction manual. This has essentially been a 3 day crash course in diving at the last minute. In 3 days I head back to mainland (weather permiting) where I will catch planes, trains and automobiles to get to Belize City. I spend a night in the ghetto then off to Cincinnati for a week, on Halloween I fly Cincy > Chicago > LA > Sydney, AU > Christchurch, NZ > McMurdo Station, ANTARCTICA! Full moon on Nov. 2nd, that'll be the midway point of my transition from North to South... naturally I migrate on full moons. But, let me not get ahead of myself... instead just drown in the now. Big Nassau Grouper below... these things are endangered due to fishing. Big fish.

My diving buddy.

Trigger fish.

Grouper.

I returned back to the station after watching Warren cut up a 6 foot shark he caught. I wished he would have gave me a few steaks :) On the menu tonight was lamb chops, fried yucca, salad, and yummy sweet coco plantain.

Okay so a few days ago I mentioned how I stuck my foot in the water at the dock and saw a giant barracuda head sniff my ankle out. Yal were probably like ya right, just like how he said he caught a 25 inch rainbow trout while trolling on kayak on his last couple days in Alaska. Well, this time I had time to grab my camera. Here she is. 3.5 feet at least foot long barracuda.

I jump down to get an underwater shot. They are harmless as long as you don't provoke them to defend. They got big teeth but I have a 12 inch army homeland security knife strapped to my leg.

Then I noticed a few smaller barracuda and mama cuda was watching how the young ones interacted with me. If they swam close she'd whip her tail on the surface and they'd swim away from me. She was teaching them what to do around a human. Keep away. Now if I was bleeding and immobile she probably would have taught them to feast.


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Friday, October 16, 2009

Scuba Class #1

I'm doing my PADI Open Water Diving Certification through Glovers Reef Atoll Resort. They are located two islands down from the island I reside on. I cook lunch for our team, study the dive book, then they pick me up at the dock and we cruise to the dive center for lesson. This is a killer boat. Reminds me of Waterworld.

The resort is very colourful and there was a lot of activity going on when I got there... fishing boats heading out, women cleaning out kayaks, Warren playing with his fishing net, Becky was preparing the dive gear and the cooks were getting lunch ready.

Dogs were the first ones to greet me.

Becky and the dive gear.

This pup wanted to do some diving with us.

Our first underwater lessons.

Buddy breathing.

I love huts.

Then we took off to the deeper water to do our 20 meter dive. 45 minutes.

Warren is a big boy that takes pride in his fishing, he is by far one of the most intuitive fishermen I have seen.

I figured that since I am surrounded by this beautiful reef ecosystem might as well get as much of it as I can. Once certified I will be good for life. Maybe I can do some ice diving in Antarctica in a couple months.

The trigger fish hung around me again.

As did the barracuda. I saw a giant Eagle Ray that had at least a 2 meter wing span. When I returned to the station I told everyone about then Alex's dad goes, 'Ya, we saw it do a full breach while we were monitoring the stingrays.' That would be an awesome sight.

My diving pal.

When I returned to the research station Alex told me that we have three more people on the island to cook for (the phone company guys). With 5 Belizieans, 1 Mexican, 1 Venezuelan, 2 Americans, and 2 British I decided to integrate local cuisine with fancy Western tastes. I made homemade tortillas, deepfried them into crunchy taco shells. Then loaded them with a layer of rice, black beans, added a red chili sauce, then about 8 oz. of red snapper, and topped it off with sauteed onions and green pepper. I've never seen this fish taco on a menu before, completely original and very tasty!

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Another Day of Underwater Glory

Our internet was down yesterday, phone's been broke for over a week, my bank blocked my account due to all the traveling I've done lately, but the cooking and underwater exploration continued. Green Curry chicken.

Banana Bread.

Buffalo wings with Marie Sharp's; the #1 Belize habanero sauce.

Potato skins.

Here's the cheesecake I taught Rena how to make.

I wondered what these critters ate besides all my food scraps... crabs.


As I was resizing these photos I pondered if I ever came up for air.

Towards the end of my swim I was chasing a few giant schools of fish. Then I felt eyes upon me. I turned around and had 5 giant barracuda swimming about 10 meters from me. I figured they were hunting fish so I backed off a bit.

Monday, October 12, 2009

A Traveling Cooking School

While in the midst of the cloud forest in Costa Rica last year I came to the realization that I need to initiate a traveling cooking school that learns/documents sustainable cooking practices relating to native tribes around the world and integrate those practices into the mainstream developed culture. Yet, so far all I have been able to do is learn personally from the natives and reciprocate by providing them with tasty treats. It hits my heart when I see an eldery tribal man try a bite he's never been able to try and watch him smile with glee. It's illogical to say I like to cook for the poor, but instead I like to cook good meals for those who never get a chance to taste something different. Put aside those rice and beans and taste this man... medium rare steak, twice baked potatoes loaded with sauteed onions, garlic, bacon chunks and topped with white cheddar, caesar salad, civiche con tortilla chips, and raisin oatmeal cookies. Woke up to big clouds.

After lunch Renata asked me to teach her how to make cheesecake the way I do it. Yesterday our boat captain asked me to teach him how to cook the raisin oatmeal cookies just so he can share the love with his family and kids. I decided to put together a few hour cooking class to show how to make really good cookies and cheesecake.

First I brought out all the ingredients they will need, and of course the Joy of Cooking cookbook.

I began putting together the dry and wet mixes for the oatmeal cookies. The captain and watchman watched carefully. I have written down the recipes for them, but it's best for me to show them how to execute the recipe before they attempt to copy it. Belizieans use the same ingredients I use, but they put it together differently and get different results.

After that I added the fat raisins I asked them what else they want in it. Walnuts and shredded coconut they said... not a problem. I like to load this cookie mix with plenty of nuts and dried fruits to maximize the energy potential of the treat. Good food = good work. 6 hours of diving requires high energy, so I pack there goods with what they need to succeed.

Once the cookies got to baking I began teaching Renata how to make my 3-layered cheesecake. To start I had her mix and bake a cookie recipe, which we later broke up and patted into a pie pan to form the crust.

A half hour after I pulled the oatmeal raisin cookies out of the oven they were almost gone.

The cheesecake baked. We still have to top it, but you'll see that tomorrow. It needs to cool a bit more overnight. Good cheesecakes require patience.

After looking at it I thought to myself that omitting the egg whites really gave the filling more body, more density. I like it. I really don't want to top it since it looks good as is, but I might as well just to show her how to do it.

As the cheesecake cooled I got dinner together. Renata tempted Bry Guy, but he's our designated boat driver tonight so he no drink. For the next few nights we are going to follow the stingrays with a radar device. A data logger records their movement and all we do is listen to the pings. When the stingray moves we must move with it just to accurately record their movement.

Twice baked potatoes gone wild.

Two steak dinners for the stingray team listening to the pings. Delivery boy at yo service by bota.
We carried the food to the boat. Two steak dinners, two steak knives, a bottle of A1 sauce, and a bottle of juice.

Off Bry and I go. We didn't bring a torch so we can't see crap. Just go man we'll reach them someday.

We made it to their boat by only hitting one reef patch and stalling out. Not bad given no torch. When we got there captain was watching the shooting stars and Mani was listening to the pings.

Every 10 minutes he records the direction of the strongest signal. The data logger records the coordinates of the tag automatically but we still need to know in what direction from our contact point the signal is comming from.

Then I gave them dinner. Happiness on board.

I decided to stay on the research boat and watch the shooting stars.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Many Lucky Catches Today

This mornin' I got up and figured hey I can't use my camera anymore so I might as well just try to distribute the photos I've already taken. Within an hour I had my photos up on the Australian/New Zealand National Geographic Website.

Then at lunch I tell Alex about my camera, he tells me to not worry because his Pa has a spare battery that will fit my camera. Huh? Okay. Weird. Thanks man. Nevermind the blog vacation, life is a vacation. Way off in the distance are two small bouys. They are the end points of the net the researchers set up in the mornin.

After lunch we prepare to catch stingrays. Why and how are we catching stingrays? Check out Alex's website at http://www.belizestingrays.org/Belize_Stingrays/Welcome.html Over the last few weeks they have caught 6 females just by luck. Alex wants to study the males too in comparison to female activity so we need to catch a male and tag it to track his movements.

We got one! Everyone was smiling.

He's a little guy. I held the net and prayed his barb didn't get hold of me like it my dads ankle in North Carolina ;) If you get stuck by a ray, put warm water on it... pee on it if you have to. Then remove any traces of the barb carefully.

To be safe Alex decided to clip the barb off. This is not permanent damage to the ray, it's more like losing a fingernail. It will grow back soon enough.

Yea.

On board we decided to take it back to the dock to get it under some shelter.

At the dock Alex put together a tag.

His dad read the serial on it as Bry Guy wrote the info down. We also recorded a few basic measurements on the ray and the location of catch.

Could be worse ray, I had my tongue pierced at age 19 because some girl in Canada dared me to do it haha.

Thank you come again.

He instantly went right beneath the boat to get some shelter and was breathing hard. Alex jumped down to keep eye on him and said he was just a little shocked. Probably felt like an alien abduction.

Gertrude the Lion Fish had been watching the whole thing all morning in disbelief. I think he was wasted.

I caught a camera battery and Alex caught a male stingray, what else can we catch? It was about 3 PM and I went to the kitchen to see if the chicken had thawed yet in the fridge. Renata yells from below, "Hey Cody there's fish at the dock." Duh Rena. I walk outside and then she explains a few local fishermen are here and they need gas. They are willing to trade red snapper for gas. I haven't had fish for weeks, heck ya. Thanks Rena. We went to the dock and bargained 15 lbs. of fresh snapper for about 6 gallons of gas.

This is not hypocrisy, this is sustainable cuisine. These fish were caught with a hand net, outside the no take fishing zone. They have their fish permits. They are not seeking to exploit and catch too much, all they want is to make an easy living doing what they like to do, fish. Being a conservation guru chef I find it well worthy to buy from local legal fishermen and hunters and gatherers. Support your local community and buy locally. Not only will the goods taste fresher but it will keep you aware of your environment and provide you with an incentive to protect your local natural resources.


Simple happiness.

Cleaning time.

Habenero Pico de Gallo.

Roasted pumpkin and the snapper. They way I cooked the snapper was I cut it into 8-10 ounce steaks and just lightly battered each piece in a spicy flour. Then pan fried 4 pieces at a time in an inch of coconut oil. I started with a recipe calling for Creamed Corn Creole Sauce and Panfried Red Snapper, but like I always do I changed up a few of the ingredients with local ingredients to make it original and sustainable.

Here is the plate I made for myself. A bed of white rice tweaked with chopped green pepper, garlic and onion. Surrounding the rice is a ring of the corn sauce, which I made spicy and chipotle-like. Above part of the sauce I put a few tablespoons of the salsa, and next to that tortilla chips. Above the rice bed are three cuts of the roasted pumpkin which are seasoned with garlic and smoked chili powder. Ontop the pumpkin is a 6 ounce piece of the red snapper lightly battered and pan fried in coconut oil. Top with a few cilantro sprigs and sprinkle more chili powder around the edges. Soooo good. For dessert I made fried plantain custard with coconut rum and cream, topped with shredded coconut and a dash of ground nutmeg.



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Even Bloggers Need a Vacation

I've been using a waterproof Olympus 850 camera for all my pictures. My mother a few days ago said how amazing it's been that the camera has lasted after my travels to and from Costa Rica, New Zealand, Antarctica, Australia, Alaska, Ohio, and Belize since May 2008. It has been dropped down flights of steps, beaten up in my backpack, fallen in various lakes and streams, slammed against rocky coastlines in Costa Rica, frozen at -40 degrees in Antarctica , scorched at 120 degres in Australia, and now subject to salt corrosion in the Atlantic. That camera has been through exactly what I've gone through in my travels and it has the scars to show it. You should see my cookbook it's even more beaten up. Well I best not be beating around da bush. As soon as my Mah mentioned the tribulations of de camera I knew something was in da air. While I was taking the footage for the video below errors kept popping up. Oh geeze. I got back to the station and was very lucky to be able to download all my files on the camera to my laptop. Always backup your data! I took the battery out of the camera and plugged it in to the charger. It charged for about 2 minutes then stop charging. I tried it a few more times with different outlets and nothing. The battery has died. This be good news because the camera is still okay, I think.

It is slighty possible that Alex's dad has a spare battery for his Olympus camera, but too be honest I could use a vacation from this blog. I began this blog, aka real-time book, the day I hit Denver, Colorado in late October 2008 and was headed to Antarctica. I calculated that I've done 1.1 posts per a day over the course of 355 days. Some posts take me several hours at night when I'm done cooking. There's lots involved... downloading from camera, cropping, organization, labeling, shrinking, uploading to website, researching and then producing the text. Let's say on average it's one hour per post... 1.1 posts a day for 355 days = 390 hours this year of blogging = 16.25 days worth of blogging for this year. Holy geeze. When I do the math I scratch my head and wonder what else I could have done with all that time. Guitar, exercise, cook experimentation, educate, learn, swim, dance, sing, sleep, etc.

Don't get me wrong though I enjoy this blog and I do it for education, very much like how National Geographic Magazine was created to show the United States community other cultures and environments around the world in the late 1800s. I'm a contemporary explorer by spirit that uses cooking as a means to travel the world and delve into the pursuit of geographical knowledge. The blog captures just bits and pieces of what I've been through. I try to captivate natures beauty as to inspire people and organizations to protect the wild. For instance, the video below shows the Glovers Atoll marine wildlife. It's beautiful, it's priceless, and I am currenlty working for researchers who have spent their lives trying to protect it. The only way I can provide this moving underwater imagery is because these reefs are still vibrant and intact; the reefs are protected. I thank all those environmental conservation groups out there in the world. Lots of thanks must also be given to my mother who bought this camera as a 'sporadic gift' before I headed out in the rain forest. Without it I'd probably be selfishly enjoying the grandeur of the wild without any means of sharing it to the global community.

I dreamt a few days ago that my blog was actually a book. I woke up from my REM and said sure why not? If only I had an editor and publisher I could 'rip' all my photos and text from the website and put it on recycled paper. I'll keep working on this, but first I'd like to get deep in Antarctica's conservation effots and create a Antarctic and Southern Ocean Coalition Chapter at McMurdo Station. I contemplated it last year and spoke with the administration of ASOC. They liked it and I promised I would do it next season when I return to the ice. My goal when I return is to create the ASOC chapter and network that with the 'Off-grid and Sustainable Living Workshop'. Thankfully I have been given the chance to go back to Antarctica sometime in early Novemeber to be a cook.

In conclusion, my blog will be most likely not be updated with my own photos/text for 2-3 weeks until I get back to civilization where I can get a new battery. I will ask the research team if they have any photos of sharks and wildlife they would like to share. Other than that possibility, I'm now on a culinary and divers paradise vacation. The camera is out of commision and now I have more time to embrace this place and be active.

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Saturday, October 10, 2009

Under the Sea

Oatmeal raisin cookies...

Chili Cheese Dogs

Beer, cheese, and scallion bread


Fat Fries

BBQ Pork

Carrot n raisin cake

Baked mac n cheese delux before being baked

Here I am greasing up the royal rat aka agouti paca. It's called Royal Rat because when the Queen of England came to visit the local embassy provided her with paca and she digged it. The butcher talked me into getting it. He got it from a friend of a friend who lives on a farm. They aren't endangered and are a very costly meat, thus the demand is low which keeps the population stable. Yet, I still think paca farms would be a good idea.

This pic is probably a turn-off for some, but trust me it's good. Although the meat is white it's more tender than the dark meat of a turkey and chicken.

I can't get enough of these lil' guys.

Party in the Park.

Kurt and Samson talking about the weather. I guess when you start watching crabs for entertainment you have become consumed by the island life. Hey, at least I didn't join in on the conversation.

Boober was envious I was spending so much time with the crabs and puffed his throat at me.

At noon it was 95 degrees in the kitchen and I was getting really thirsty. Fresh coconut water is always on the menu. I've heard from locals in Belize and Costa Rica that coconut water is very good for digestion.

After I cooked the carrot cake I decided to take off to the secret beach and do some snorkeling.

There's where my brain went.




Gotta chase them barracuda, or else they will chase you.
I swam out to the atoll reef wall and put my flippers on.
A couple days ago I showed you many pics of dead coral, here's the live stuff.


Trigger fish. This dude swam by my side for the two hours I was in the water.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Photo by Beecher

One of my buds in Canada has tagged this photo of me on Facebook. A tag is when you have a picture of someone and you label them accordingly.


To Da Big City of Dangriga

Red in the morning sailors take warning.

At 6:30 AM we took off to go pick up groceries in Dangriga, which is about a 1.5 hour boat ride from our island. Below is Tobacco Key, one of our island neighbors. We'll come back to this island later...

Hola Dangriga.

Man tryin to get dem fish.

No dump. No garbage.

No sinking.

Red Lobster. Yes, we got lobsters here.

Goin to de market to pick up some fruit and meat.

Dis be da school right next to de market. Empty courtyard = kids in class.

Den we head out back to de island of paradise.

But first we stop by Tobacco Key to see what's shakin.

Two octopuses matin' that's what shakin'

Lil' black dog invites us in.

We make our way to da bar where we hang with the locals. Ishmael is our new captain, we picked him up near the food market. Da ol' captain Faigin had to take a two week break. Ishmael's brotha lives on Tobacco Key. He told me stories about how hurricanes have changed the island over the last 5 decades. In 1960s they got hit by many big hurricanes and the island shrunk by over 50%. Many people leave, but the few who have stayed have it well. They like my brothas, we share the same vibe of tranquility and respect. Mad respect mon. U straight mon? Ya we straight. Good food mon. Ya mon, good food is good work.

Chillin on de boat headin back to the island I see some eerie rain clouds. Rain acommin' my gut says. Sky was red dis mornin.

Dis guy try to race us, and he beat us.

Oh no our island looks like it's gonna get slammed.

Here's Brain sayin, 'Eh Cody don't forget your laundry on the clothes line.'

Whoops.

Some divers from the local islands were diving near our island and had to take shelter in our wet lab during the storm. I chilled with dem. The tourists were from Germany and the dive instructors were local islanders. Great times.


Every day for the last three days I have gone to this tank to find just one more random lion fish swimming around. Who the heck is catchin these fish?

Red in da mornin sailors take warnin, but when dat redsun sets dat sky be blessed.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

De Everyday Island Life



I dug through the fridge earlier today looking for some tortillas to make steak quesadillas, we didn't have any. So, I pulled out the handy dandy cookbook and made my own. Flour, warm water, shorterning, and salt.




Yesterday we had cheeseburgers for lunch.


I love cheese and I love bread = cheesebread.


Italian night was last night.


Blondy brownies.
After cooking, prepping, and eating I decided to get laundry done for tomorrows ride into town.



After that it was siesta time. When I first got out there I stuck my feet in the water and watched all the little fish going between my feet. I was like hey little dudes where you goin? I looked up and watched a few birds, then when I looked down I saw a giant barracuda head move from beneath the dock and come within 20 cm of my foot. Holy %#&! I flung my legs out of the water and fell back onto the dock. I crawled over to look at this monster and it was at least two feet long. A few days ago I thought I saw a giant barracuda chasing the needle fish, but this really reassured my thinking. No time for a camera I jumped in the water to scare the crap out of this thing just to show it who's higher on the food chain. Barracuda rule #1 - bite me and I will eat you. Later I talked with the marine biologists and they say it would take a nice bite of your foot if doesn't know your size.


I hiked back towards the station and saw Alex's dad picking up trash, figured I might as well do something useful besides chase a barracuda.

No matter where you go, as long as you have a 10' x 10' space you can work out. No excuses. Sit-ups, push-ups, and pull-ups are what I routinely do and they work well if you do them at least 3 times a week for about a half hour each day. You don't need a gym to work out, all you need is will power.






After all that fun it was time to do some exploring.






This is a sad sight to see. Some of the most polluted beaches I've seen were in the most remote places of Alaska and Costa Rica. We can't point fingers at other countries for polluting the seas, all we can do is try to clean it up.


I soon realized I was walking on a coral graveyard. In fact, this whole island is built on coral. As sea levels rise and fall coral reefs get covered and uncovered by the sea. At one point this island was a coral reef underwater. With a drop in sea level from some time long ago this coral reef patch remained exposed to the air, dried out, died, and became a hard rock-like feature by which sand, vegetation, and humans could colonize ontop of. The graveyard coral was eerie and I began to ponder what other bones I could be walking on... Mayan, pirates, European explorers... so I tred softly.




















A secret beach ;)

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

More Underwater Exploration

Lizards... and crabs... The picture below is of Alex's sonar do-dad-thing-a-ma-jig that measures how far a tag is. A tag is a small device researchers put on animals or humans that emits a small radio frequency which is detected by the sonar do-dad-thing-a-ma-jig. Today we tested the device by putting tags on Renata's butt and tracked her by boat as she scubaed (?) underwater for an hour or so. I just played around with the bubbles that came from their tanks and practiced a wee bit of deep diving without the scuba gear.

Here's Alex chasing a male stingray while questioning why the bloody heck he can't catch a male. I told him they like male grizzlies... introverted and don't want to be bothered. You can kind of see the ray as a small shadow in front of him.

The view from the dining room. Cornbread. Oven baked sweet potato fries. Cho-cho (chayote) Fried chikin

First Dive in Paradise

It was a festive morning when I learned I could go out diving with the scientists as they set up underwater cameras to view stingray activity. For lunch I decided a homemade pizza would make day even better.

As you can see it's stuffed crust.
Getting all the gear together.
Before diving we paid a visit to a neighboring island.
Wind generator was howling.

Then off we went.
For the first bit Brian and I just snorkeled to get the cages in place. We had to find a soft sandy spot where the stakes could be put in easy. One cage was for the bait fish that would lure in the stingrays for investigation and the other cage was for the video camera to record the stingray activity around the bait fish. In general, Alex is focused on watching how the males act in comparison to the females. Yesterday we talked about all the factors that may determine where male stingrays can be found... temperature of water, predators, pollution, moonshine, sunshine, state of metabolism, etc. When stingrays are in warm, shallow waters their metabolism works fast thus they need to replenish more frequently. When they decide to rest they move to deeper, cooler waters where the body processes work slower. Very much like how in hot climates my metabolism speeds up and in cold climates I'm sure to put on some weight.
Here's Alex getting the camera ready.
Brian and the bait fish.
With the bait fish and camera in place we had to wait an hour to let the camera and sting rays do their jobs. During the wait period Brian decided to give me a few lessons in diving. As soon as I jumped in and began breathing with the tank I loved it. At first I kept using my arms like I was trying to swim, but Brian told point to my flippers and showed to let my hands rest and let the legs do all the work. I'm a runner and using flippers requires different leg muscles, it's going to take some time to readjust my leg motions. We decided to keep underwater for 20 minutes and circled around a few reefs patches.
Christmas tree worm.
After the dive Alex and Brian went back to pick up the camera and bait fish.
I wouldn't mind living there.
Pizza was a great start of the day and I felt that we should finish it off with a steak dinner. Fried plantains with chocolate and nutmeg for dessert.
Mashed potatoes.
Steak on a barbie with grilled squash in the background.
The moon arose and after dinner we all moved out to the beach to talk about life and good times. We covered everything from 2012 (again) to native beliefs to stingray research to guitar lessons to where to find the best rum. I brought out my guitar, Brian brought out the rum and mango juice, and the rest just brought their stories and laughter. It was an amazing time and we decided that at least once a week we need to do this. We'll consider it an 'all hands meeting'. When everyone started stretching out and laying down on the sand to stare up at the fullmoon I decided it was time for me to take off and get some photos of the moon and palm trees. I won't be around for the next full moon on this island (I always transition on moons) so why not soak up the moonshine while I can eh?

video

Monday, October 5, 2009

Culture Shock ;)

This is the view from my balcony. Where you see the waves breaking is where the reef atoll boundary begins. Dark blue = deep. Light blue = shallow reef.

The main research station aka Alex's shack.

Roast beef sandwiches with white cheddar and carmelized onion.

Best papaya I've ever tasted.

The underwater world jungle.

Totally made up... Beliziean Lamb Gumbo


Saturday, October 3, 2009

Wilderness Conservation at Glovers

To maintain and promote the quality of nature we must work at it. We must educate our children about respecting the wild. We must show by example how to live free and in balance. We... must first be at balance.

We have 4 varieties of trash bins on station... paper, plastic, food waste, and metals.
Tomorrow's picture isn't too grand.
We have a small generator that we run about 6 hours a day just for the freezers and washing machine. For the other 18 hours we rely upon the battery bank charged by the solar panels. When the generator is off we must unplug the equipment that will drain the battery bank quickly, like the freezer. Alex, the station manager, said that he has two wind generators in storage that we need to put up. Hopefully I can learn how to install one of these groovy gadgets.
Here's de bathroom.
Beneath the toilets is a giant Clivus composter. Once you do your job you throw in wood chips and the little natural composters comsume the waste.
Although it's the rainy season I haven't seen rain once and it's important to not use our limited water supply which is kept in giant black rain barrels attached to the roofs of the station buildings.
Rain barrels.
The wet lab where the scientists do studies on coral and fish.
The dive shack.
After I ate a few pieces of pineapple and took the above photos they asked me if I wanted to go out to check the cages the have placed on the reef as an experiment. The parrot fish is a herbivore fish that consusmes algae and coral and algae are in competition for sunlight. By placing cage ontop the algae formations the fish cannot eat it. They are trying to examine the relationships between coral and algae competition with out the parrot fish variable. If parrot fish are being endangered in these parts then algae may overtake the coral in terms of sunlight capture. Predators are needed to keep ecosystems intact and the main goal of this study will be to look indirectly at the parrot fish population by looking at the status of the foods the eat. If there algae food is overgrown then the fish haven't been doing their job or the fish are no longer there.
It's a hard life for the scientists. I mean that sun is just so bloody hot and makes life so rough.
Adios Glovers.
Brian and Emmanual getting ready to drop in.
I'm not certified to dive yet but I can still snorkle. Later I just took off my gear and swam natural. It's a blessing to be in a warm ocean after Alaska where the water was 42 degrees. There's something about being underwater... feels like home. Many tribes from around the world believe that our animal race once originated from the oceans. I feel it. Even if we came from outerspace (panspermia hyopthesis) we still would have had to incubate in water somewhere.
After an hour of underwater dreaming it was time for us to leave our mooring and go grab the divers.
When we got back Alex and his father were packing up another boat getting ready to go catch a male stingray. Alex has caught and tagged 5 stingrays so far, but all have been female. He's attempting to look at sex variation and movement among the ray population. It's a full moon and I propose that maybe the male rays are like male sloths, very introverted drifters that reproduce according to the lunar cycle. In Costa Rica we would often see female 3-toed sloths with their babes, but no males because the males were always migrating from one 'nest' to another every month to mate duing the full moon. I could be way off but why is that we see so many females and very few males? The females are very large and have a darker skin, thus easy to see against the light sand at the seafloor. The males are a bit smaller, faster, and have a lighter skin, which makes it really hard to see and follow.
As I type the team is doing this. I can hear them on the walky talky talking about, 'is it a male?', 'is it a female?', 'guys there's a barracuda over there.' Yetserday I went out with them and took turns doing the ray spotting. I stood on the bow and held on tight as I pointed to the direction of the ray. I spotted about 10 rays and two of them were male. Once we think we spot a male from the boat one person jumps in with a mask on and tries to see if it's male or female for sure. Every one we thought was male darted away when the person jumped in and they were smart because they'd hide in the sand next to the green patches. Even if we followed them they'd eventually vanish out of sight. If we were to spot a male we could catch, both boats would line up parallel with a net in between them and they'd catch it. Then the ray would be brought on board and Alex would tag it with a device that can be tracked by sonar. It's movements would be monitored and compared to female activity.
They dropped me off to get lunch ready for them... toasted ham steaks with grilled pineapple and white cheese sandwiches, guac, nachos, carrots, celery, and watermelon. Below is our solar panels.
In my room (grabbing my cookbook) there are a few conservation posters on the wall. In fact, I think every room has some sort of education poster on the wall. Every corner you turn you learn something.

Dr. Igua does what the solar panel does, soaks up the sun. I decided to join the solar party.
After lunch I started working on a three layered cheesecake. Sugar cookie crust, the first layer was rum and coffee bean, the 2nd layer vanilla, and the third layer was creamy chocolate.
My work station

Pantry. Culinary research in the breeze.
Dining room.
Da kitchen. Dis da fi wi chikin.
Oh it's only 90 degrees with the oven off and probably 95 with the oven on. The last kitchen I worked at just 5 days ago in Alaska averaged 65.
For dinner... salad, mac n cheese n chip casserole, fries, and buffalo wings with habanero sauce. The Belizeans asked me what country is my food from... I told them the world. They are excited to have new flavours igniting their tastebuds. Dis be a global cuisine I carry with me... a global sustainable cuisine since all the ingredients come from local farmers that take care of their land. The folks from UK, Arizona, and Venezuela love the new tastes and the cheesecake topped off the dinner. It's as if these people have been starving for the last few months with beans and rice. But, don't get me wrong I love the nutitional value of beans and rice. Good food = good vibe = good research. The cap'n and I talked deep about our lives on da boat while the divers were down at the seafloor. He tells me I talk the talk, and I walk the walk. We both are passionate about what we do. He tells me when his father died he was given an instinctual GPS and he's right... I saw him find things 25 feet under water just from his gut. Cap'n loves his boating, and I love my cooking. I can put together something from nothing and he tells me that's a magic. I smiled... yes cap'n cookin' is a magic just like your 6th sense of direction is magic.

Heading to Glovers Research Station

Yesterday morning I woke up and walked to the King Burger which was a few blocks down from my hotel to meet the research team.
Kids, teens, adults, and the elderly minlge at street corners. It seems as if there is no need for television here because people are always in the streets. Maybe it's just too hot to be inside all the time. Whatever the reason is why Belizeans love to be outside I like it. It's very social, very active, and I personally think it keeps the community alive and productive. Everyone watches out for each other and it's just great to be outside under the sun.

Here's the King Burger. They used to be called Burger King, but the bigtime Burger King found out (how I dunno) and made them change it.

I met the researchers and we took off to the grocery to do some shopping.

As I found in Thailand you will often find the best traditional and foreign food alongside the streets. Buy from the street vendors, they really mean well. They sit their all day baking in the sun selling tamales and whatever to feed their family, but I also think they enjoy it. The streets are like a movie. Often they get their produce straight from nearby farms too and that helps the entire community out in the long run.

On our way to the fruit and meat market we saw this herd of children. I estimate at least 200 students were lined up down the street. The one boy I talked to at the bus station said that the population is growing quickly here and the younger generation has more needs and wants. This is not good because it puts more pressure on resources that they don't have to exploit. The future is dire if we keep reproducing without properly managing our environment.

Fruit market Habaneros seem to be one of the staple vegetables here. There's a sauce on every dining table called 'Marie Sharps' and it's the bomb. Best pepper flavour and it has a really good heat.

Fresh honey in the bottles. Bees are still okay here.

The fish & meat (area)

My second favorite pic in the post. Dis our meat guy (I be talkin like dem carrib belizeans now, I dig it mon), he's a cool dude that worked in Chicago for a bit doing BBQ business. He returned to Belize to pick up his job here for the summer. He tried to go back but customs denied him in Miami. Since then he has no incentive to go back to the US, he doesn't really like it there. The only place he liked was Vale, CO. Once Nati left me to the butch we talked for an hour about wild game. I told him about moose and bear meat up north and he told me about paca, wild turkey, and iguana. Unfortunately I learned that the way his sources get the meat is not environmentally friendly. He told me pig flu has come to Belize and it's making it's way even further south into Honduras. Then he goes, if there are too many people something has to happen to balance it out. Once again, in just two days I've heard at least 4 times that our world is overpopulated and natural/social destruction is imminent just to instate a global balance between society and nature.

He lended me this book so I could get to know certain cuts of meats. I pointed out to him short ribs, baby back ribs, pork shoulder, top serloin, and brisket. He showed me each cut and how to cut it.

The research team had been waiting for me patiently and in the meantime they showed a few young kids how to make bracelets. Off again. This time it was siesta time. Oh ya this is what I've been waiting for. Palm trees. This be my favorite picture. The boy and his dog. Then we packed up the boat and prepared to venture to the island.

Adios mainland Belize, see you again in a month.

First we stopped at Tobacco Key. This island is where many backpackers come too.

At first glance all I saw were little kids running around the island naked or barely clothed.

At the bar we chatted with the locals and a few German tourists who had been traveling the world for over a year.
That little red dot is where we are heading. The main barrier reef, which is about an hour boat ride away from our island is where Tobacco Key is at.
Dem birds will get your fish you ain't careful.

Full moon and a tiger ergot. Renata said that these birds are extrememy endangered and really rare to see. When they talk it sounds like a tiger.

Sunset. Hello Glovers Reef Atoll Research Station and Paradise Island! Home sweet home.

Unpacking.

Right away I got working on dinner. Brian helps me prep.

I did up a quick and easy dinner since it was late. My style of fully loaded quesadillas with guac, pineapple salsa, nachos, salad, and green beans.

After that I got to my room that looks like it has been battered by many hurricanes. It's only 80 degrees in there and my fan doesn't work, but at least there are bug nets on the windows to keep mossies out. Completely tradition and I love it.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

My First Taste of Belize

This journey from Alaska (subarctic) to Belize (equator) has been more fulfilled by words than these photos. I met so many people today and received many lessons. It's started from the second I turned off my computer next while sitting next to that giant grizzly at the airport. Some girl about my age grabbed the phone behind me and called the police. She said something, I wasn't paying attention, hung the phone up, looked at me and goes, "so... hi, what's up?" I just said I'm heading to the northern terminal to catch my flight to Belize. She starts to tell me her story and the cops walk up. They open a door near the phone, they talk awhile, then give her a suitcase and a court summons document. She sits back down next to me and tells me her situation... just got evicted from an apartment in Anchorage, cops found narcs in her suitcase but they aren't hers, trying to Fairbanks but missed her flight because there was a hold up once they found the stuff in her bags, and she has no cash. I gave her 20 bucks for a taxi and we split. At 2AM I borded and at 8 AM I reached Phoenix, Arizona.

Phoenix to Houston... The new suburban microchip by Microsoft.

Flying is the ultimate means to view Earth's big blue picture. At 35,000 FASL you are flying above 95% of atmospheric mass. The view is a beautiful blue. Air travel is tedious and tiresome but if you have a window seat you can get a birds eye view of the world we live in. I would love to go into space. Think outside the box. Dream outside the blue ball.

Hello Belize Belize City in the distance. No big buildings, thank goodness. I was amazed at how much land is undeveloped. I could see subdivisions being constructed alongside watersheds in the mainland. At the bus terminal a dude came up to me and we started chatting. I told him about my job here and he said he's taking eco-tourism classes at school. He said it was neat to learn about the sky and the water, and how humans interact with it. That is really the underlying principle of geography. Later we got on the subject of climate change and Mayans. He told me how the Mayan civilization was like contemporary urbanization and population growth. Mayans used too many natural resources and grew so big that they eventually choked their environment and civlizaiton. We both agreed that what you do onto others comes on to you. Disrespect the Earth and she'll clean herself of such filth. I just said 2012. He goes, it's not about a certain date it's already happening. Word.

Palm trees!

Customs!

Taxi to the bus station. Just when I thought it wa sover I find out I still have to get 3 hours south of the airport to Dangriga by autobus.

Palm trees! Palm trees!Palm trees!Soldiers. Hey a bike... More bikes... I think there are more bicycles on the streets than cars and the bikes will just pull right out in front of cars, I like that enthusiasm for green transportation.

Exercise is good, can't get a sweat going while driving a car now can ya?

The sun begins to set and the communities just seem to be hanging in the streets. Most speak English fluent and I've heard almost no Spanish. I'm the only one speaking Spanish it seems like. Most have a Jamaican dialect and dreds are common. There's totally a rasta vibe to this country. Yet, the further south I got the more different the dialects changed. It turned from a Carribean-Rasta English accent to a Mayan-Spanish accent. I can understand some words they speak, but some speak so deep, so unique, so intersting that I just have to pick up their vibe to figure out what they trying to say. Night came and we headed south the the bus to several small towns and finally to Dangriga.Full moon in 2 days. I always transition on full moons.

The markets closed down everywhere we came to.

But, thankfully I got to my hotel in Dangriga and found a bite to eat.

I picked up some temales and empenadas? at a local street vendor. Both taste like corn flour, chicken a hint of curry.


Many strangers helped me today along my way through Belize, they rock. All I have met so far are very chill and positive. It's a great attitude to just be happy with what you got. There's a collective conscientious incentive to take care of the envrionment and I was glad to hear the one student at the bus station telling me about his eco-tourism courses. On the bus I heard other young students talking about how bad one of the oil mining sites was as we passed it on our way south. The hotel I'm at now has pictures of conservation programs and signs promoting Belize's environment conservation and awareness. Should be sunny tomorrow. I have to meet the team in the morning, buy groceries for the menu, and then we're off to the island. Feels like 24 hours of non-stop traveling because it has been, good nighty.